Treasure Socks – free pattern

I often get asked where the inspiration for my designs comes from, and it’s not always an easy question to answer.  Sometimes it can be something very specific, particularly if it’s for a commission, but when I’m designing socks for myself, most of the time an idea will come to me based on something that I’ve seen or heard.  Sometimes the idea comes and goes, like a dream that you can’t quite remember when you wake up in the morning.  Not for these socks, though.  These are the Treasure Socks and the idea came to me fully formed, and even now, every time I look at them, they make me smile because they are based on something that made me very happy.

During the summer of 2023, my husband and I were captivated by the TV show Detectorists, a gentle comedy series about life, love and friendships – and metal detectors.  It’s a few years old now so we were a bit late to the party, but the sentiment of the programme is one that doesn’t age so it doesn’t matter when you watch it.  It’s written by Mackenzie Crook, who plays one of the lead characters, and I loved the kindness of the relationships, even those that started out as antagonistic.  No peril or trauma, just beautifully written scripts and shots of the English countryside, and we watched it all from start to finish within a short period of time.

As Maya Angelou said, “I’ve learned that people will forget what you said, people will forget what you did, but people will never forget how you made them feel”, and that absolutely applies to how this series stayed with me, long after we had watched the last episode.  In particular, I loved the friendship between the two male lead characters; not overly affectionate or emotional and both had their foibles, but it was a wonderful example of how men can be with each other without having to pretend to be something that they are not.  So many men suffer from not having those kinds of relationships, and I hope that the series has encouraged a few more men to spend time with like-minded companions.

So how did this series become a pair of socks?  Well, inspired by the show and a line in the theme tune, “I’ll be your treasure”, I wanted something that would show off the colours in the yarn like gemstone treasures discovered in the ground.  These socks are designed to be worn, though, not hidden away to be discovered in a sock drawer in the future!  Use treasured yarn, gift to them to your treasures or treasure them yourself – these are jewels for your feet! 🙂

The four-stitch shapes are easily worked using two colours and easily memorised too, so that you can enjoy knitting the socks without too much concentration.  This pattern is ideal for a first-time colourwork sock too, and don’t forget that you can use the Easy Colourwork Socks tutorial for help with how to alternate the yarns and read a chart.

Alternating the yarns across the soles of the feet gives a lovely striped effect which looks much more complicated than it actually is (I love this kind of pattern!) and also gives a thicker sole too, as you’re working with two yarns.

The heel is the slip stitch heel that I use for most of my socks and in the Winwick Mum Sockalong tutorials so you can always get a reminder of how it works in the photo tutorial there.

The lovely thing about this pattern is that you can use any type of yarn for the contrast and it should look fabulous.  The two colours that I’ve used here are West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply in Milk Bottle for my main colour and West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply in Seascape for the contrast.  Winwick Mum stripes are not as defined as other WYS stripes and I love the way the colours blend into each other through the shapes – it really does make them look like gemstones!  Aquamarine or turquoise, maybe, or sea glass, a gem from the ocean.

I tried it out with a couple of other Winwick Mum colours too.  Here’s Summer Sunset in shades of red and pink, and Spring Green in shades of green and yellow … rubies and emeralds, perhaps?

You could also use a variegated yarn, or one with an hombre stripe or longer fade, or even two solid colours – there’s no end to the choice!

Of course, it would have been sensible if I had weighed my yarn so that I could give you a rough idea of how much I used, but sadly, I completely forgot.  What I can tell you, though, is that my pair of socks weighs 70g which makes them 35g each and I used more of the Milk Bottle than the Seascape.  My socks are UK size 5 knitted on 60sts.

 

Edit:  I’ve been asked quite a lot about sizing and the floats (yarn that is carried across the back of the sock) so I thought I’d add a few thoughts here which might help.

I knitted my own pair of Treasure Socks in my usual 60sts size.  You can choose to go up one size (or more) with colourwork if you think you’ll knit tightly, or you can go up a needle size which means that you can stick with your same cast on size but use bigger needles.  Both of these methods will help to compensate for any pulling in of the fabric, and also your socks being a bit tighter than usual if you usually wear snug-fitting socks as you are knitting with double the yarn which will make the fabric thicker.

For my socks, I didn’t change sizes as two strands of 4ply is about the same as one strand of 8ply (DK) yarn so I knew that the socks would fit as long as I didn’t let the fabric pull in too tightly.  To stop this happening, I stop knitting and stretch the stitches along the needle every few stitches when I change colours.  At first, it feels like a right faff to do this, but very quickly you’ll find that it becomes quite natural and you do it without thinking.

This is what my floats look like …

and in this photo, I’ve got my hand inside the sock and I’ve stretched my fingers right out to make sure that the fabric still stretches and the floats aren’t too tight …

The floats in the Treasure Socks pattern are only short, so don’t the let the worry that they’ll be too long and catch in your toes stop you from making sure that they are loose enough to get your sock on!

 

I’ve written the pattern out for you below and you can download a copy as well if you’d prefer to do that.  This pattern isn’t complicated but it’s worth reading ahead just a little as I’ve added some extra notes to the gusset section.  Having said that, no overthinking or worrying about what to do before you get to that point is allowed here, the pattern will work out if you trust the magic, and don’t forget that if you’re brand new to socks, you can use the Winwick Mum Sockalong tutorials to help you.

If you would like a PDF copy of the pattern to work from, you can download that HERE.

 

Treasure Socks

Size

To fit ball of foot circumference:  8 [8½:9:9½] ins; 20 [22:23:24] cm

Tension

30 sts to 4 ins (10 cm) in stocking stitch (worked in the round) on 2.5mm needles (or size required for tension). Always use the size of needles to get the correct gauge.

Yarn

1 x 100g West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply in Milk Bottle (MC)
1 x 100g West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply in Seascape (CC)

Materials

2.5mm needles – short circular needle, DPNs (double pointed needles) or 80 cm circular for magic loop
** You may also choose to use your preferred needle in one size larger for the colourwork**
1 set DPNs size 3.0mm (optional for a looser cuff)
1 set DPNs size 2.5mm (not required for magic loop)
Stitch holder (optional)
Stitch markers
Wool needle

Abbreviations

cm          Centimetres
DPNs     Double pointed needles
In(s)      Inch(es)
K             Knit
K2tog    Knit two stitches together
P              Purl
P2tog     Purl two stitches together
Sl1           Slip 1  stitch purlwise holding yarn to the back of your work
SSK        Slip the first stitch on the left hand needle knitwise onto the right hand needle, slip the second stitch on the left hand needle purlwise onto the right hand needle, slip both stitches back onto the left hand needle and knit together through back  loop
St(s)       Stitch(es)
( )            Repeat instructions inside brackets

 

Pattern Notes:

• These socks are knitted on 2.5mm needles, not 3.25mm as stated on the ball band. This will produce a different tension but will ensure a firmer, more hard-wearing fabric for your socks.  The ideal tension for these socks is 30 stitches to 10 cm (4 inches) so use whatever size needles are required to reach that tension and do check that your knitted fabric is firm but not stiff.

• When working from a chart you will read all rounds from right to left.

• When working the colourwork sections, the dominant colour changes depending on the row of the chart so to make sure that they stand out, bring the yarn from underneath the main colour to make the stitch.  This makes a slightly longer float which in turn makes the stitch stand out against the main colour.

• Be careful not to pull the floats too tight across the back of the sock as this will make your fabric tighter and your socks might not fit properly – if in doubt, use a size larger needles for the colourwork as this will make that section bigger without you needing to resize the whole sock. 

 

Pattern

Cuff

Using Milk Bottle (MC), cast on 60 [64:68:72] sts using 3.0mm double pointed needles.  The pattern has been written for a cast on with straight needles; if you wish to join into the round straight away, work row 1 twice and omit row 2.

Row 1:      (K2, P2) repeat to end, turn.
Row 2:      (K2, P2) repeat to end, turn.

Change to a 2.5mm short circular needle, magic loop or divide the stitches across DPNs and join into a circle, place marker.  You will sew up the small gap where you knitted the first two rows later.

Continue in K2, P2 rib for 14 more rounds or desired length of rib.

 

Leg

Knit 2 rounds then join in CC.  Do not break MC.

Using either chart or written instructions for your size, work rounds 1-12 until work measures 6 or 7 in; 15 or 17 cm from cast on edge.

 

Left leg

Written instructions

Round 1:            (K1CC, K3MC) 15 [16:17:18] times.   60[64:68:72] sts

Round 2:           (K2CC, K2MC) 15 [16:17:18] times.

Rounds 3-4:     (K3CC, K1MC) 15 [16:17:18] times.

Round 5:           (K1MC, K2CC, K1MC) 15 [16:17:18] times.

Round 6:           (K2MC, K1CC, K1MC) 15 [16:17:18] times.

Round 7:           (K1CC, K3MC) 15 [16:17:18] times.

Round 8:           (K1CC, K2MC, K1CC) 15 [16:17:18] times.

Rounds 9-10:   (K1CC, K1MC, K2CC) 15 [16:17:18] times.

Round 11:          (K2MC, K2CC) 15 [16:17:18] times.

Round 12:          (K2MC, K1CC, K1MC) 15 [16:17:18] times.

Rounds 1-12 set pattern and should be repeated.

 

Chart instructions 

Rounds 1-12:    (Work Chart A) 15 [16:17:18] times.   60[64:68:72] sts

Rounds 1-12 set pattern and should be repeated.

 

Right leg

Written instructions

Round 1:            (K3MC, K1CC) 15 [16:17:18] times.   60[64:68:72] sts

Round 2:           (K2MC, K2CC) 15 [16:17:18] times.

Rounds 3-4:     (K1MC, K3CC) 15 [16:17:18] times.

Round 5:           (K1MC, K2CC) K1MC 15 [16:17:18] times.

Round 6:           (K1MC, K1CC) K2MC 15 [16:17:18] times.

Round 7:           (K3MC, K1CC) 15 [16:17:18] times.

Round 8:           (K1CC, K2MC, K1CC) 15 [16:17:18] times.

Rounds 9-10:   (K2CC, K1MC, K1CC) 15 [16:17:18] times.

Round 11:          (K2CC, K2MC) 15 [16:17:18] times.

Round 12:          (K1MC, K1CC, K2MC) 15 [16:17:18] times.

Rounds 1-12 set pattern and should be repeated.

 

Chart instructions

Rounds 1-12:    (Work Chart B) 15 [16:17:18] times.   60[64:68:72] sts

Rounds 1-12 set pattern and should be repeated.

 

Heel Flap

Change to 2.5mm DPNs if you are using a short circular needle.  There is no need to use DPNs if you are using magic loop.  You may prefer to place the spare stitches from the top of the foot onto a stitch holder if you are using a short circular or DPNs whilst you work the heel.

Using Milk Bottle (MC), work heel flap as follows.  It is not necessary to cut the CC yarn at this point.  Knitting the first two stitches helps to avoid a hole at the gusset.

Row 1:      K2, (Sl1, K1) until there are 30 [32:34:36] sts on your needle, turn.
Row 2:     Sl1, P to end, turn.
Row 3:     (Sl1, K1) to end, turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until heel measures 2 [2:2½:3] ins; 5 [5:6.5:7.5] cm or desired length, finishing on row 3.  If you want to make the heel flap longer, continue knitting rows 2 and 3 until you reach the desired length, but remember that you will need to pick up more stitches to create the gusset.  You can check that the heel flap is long enough by measuring it against your foot from your ankle bone to the floor.

 

Turn heel

Row 1:      Sl1, P16 [17:18:19], P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 2:     Sl1, K5, SSK, K1, turn.
Row 3:     Sl1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 4:     Sl1, K7, SSK, K1, turn.

Continue in this way, adding one stitch between slip stitch and SSK or P2tog on each row (ie, Row 5: Sl1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn; Row 6: Sl1, K9, SSK, K1, turn; etc) until all of the heel sts are used.  Depending on how many stitches are in your heel flap, you may find that the K1 and P1 stitch is not required at the end of the last two rows.

 

READ THIS SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING AS YOU’VE GOT CHOICES!

 

Picking up for the gusset with two colours

Usually, when you’re knitting a sock in a single colour, your yarn is at the left hand side of the heel flap ready to pick up the gusset stitches.  Your MC yarn is already  there … but your CC yarn which you need for this next section is where you left it at the start of the heel flap.  Your choice is to:

A         Work the gusset decrease stitches from where you left the CC yarn – this will mean that you work the gusset the other way around from the Basic 4ply Socks pattern and your round will start with SSK;

OR

B          Pick up the gusset stitches from where you left the CC yarn but work an extra round of the gusset so that you can start your round at K2tog in the usual place, and if you are comfortable knitting your socks that way round, you’re not going to be doing anything different.

 

For either method, follow the instructions as below and I’ll tell you when you can make the choice.

Note: If you are using DPNs and/or have placed your stitches on a stitch holder, you can arrange the needles as follows:  Needle 1 for stitches across heel, Needle 2 for picked-up stitches down side of foot, Needle 3 for stitches across top of foot (knit stitches off stitch holder if required), Needle 4 for picked-up stitches on other side of foot.  You may find that stitch markers are not required at first.

 

Break MC yarn and rejoin at the right hand side of the heel flap (with the outside of the flap facing you) where you left the CC yarn to start the heel flap.  Starting with MC, pick up and knit 1 st for every 2 rows of heel flap knitted using alternate colours of MC and CC.  Remember that if you made the heel flap bigger, you will need to pick up more stitches.

Knit across heel sts in alternate colours to bring you to the left hand side of the heel flap ready to pick up 1 st for every 2 rows of heel flap knitted ending with a MC st, then place marker.

Knit across the top of the foot stitches in pattern.

 

Shape gusset

To start your round at the SSK decrease, shape gusset as follows.

Round 1:          K1MC, SSK, K in alternating colours following sequence already set to 3 sts before the next marker, K2tog, K1MC, slip marker, knit in pattern to next marker.

Round 2:         Slip marker, K1MC, K in alternating colours to next marker, .

Round 3:         K1MC, SSK, K in alternating colours to 3 sts before next marker, K2tog, K1MC, slip marker, knit in pattern to next marker.

 

To start your round at the K2tog decrease, shape gusset as follows.

Round 1:          Slip marker, K in alternating colours following sequence already set to 3 sts before next marker.

Round 2:         K2tog, K1MC, slip marker, knit in pattern to next marker, slip marker, K1MC, SSK, K in alternating colours to marker.

Round 3:         Slip marker, knit in pattern to next marker, slip marker, knit in alternating colours to 3 sts before marker.

 

For both versions

Repeat rounds 2 and 3 to shape the gusset.  Continue in this way, decreasing by two stitches at the gusset on every other round until there are 60 [64:68:72] stitches on the needle.

It’s up to you at this point which side of your sock you choose to keep as the start of your round – you’ll have two stitch markers so you can remove the marker at the SSK or K2tog decrease as you prefer but keep the other one in to indicate the start of your round.  The toe decreases will work as written whichever side you have the start of your round.

Once you have reached the required number of stitches, continue to knit each round in pattern as set until you reach 2 ins; 5 cm before the desired length ready to start the toes. Don’t be afraid to try your sock on before decreasing for the toes!

 

Toes

Note: At some point whilst decreasing for the toes, if you are using a short circular needle you may need to change back to DPNs or use the magic loop method as the number of stitches becomes too small for the circular. It’s up to you when you choose to do that, and how you distribute the stitches across the needles; just keep following the pattern as set below.

Break CC and using MC, create the toes as follows:

Round 1:       K1, SSK, K24 [26:28:30] sts, K2tog, K1, place marker (if required), K1, SSK, K24 [26:28:30] sts, K2tog, K1.   56 [60:64:68] sts.

Round 2:      Knit one round, slipping markers as you come to them.

Round 3:      K1, SSK, K to 3 sts before marker, K2tog, K1, slip marker, K1, SSK, K to 3 sts before marker, K2tog, K1.     52 [56:60:64] sts.

Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until you have 28 [28:32:32] sts left and divide these between two needles so that front and back of socks match.

Graft toes using Kitchener stitch, weave in all ends and sew up the small gap at the cuff where you cast on.

 

If you can use Ravelry and you’d like to, you can link your socks to the project page so that others can admire them, and if you would like to share them other social media platforms you can use the hashtags #WinwickMumSocks and #WinterHavenKAL. 

I’m really looking forward to seeing how your Treasure Socks turn out!

 

This pattern is free on this blog and will always remain so, but if you have enjoyed using it and would like to buy me a brew, it will be much appreciated!  You can find the donation button on the sidebar on the left hand side.  Thank you! xx

 

This pattern copyright © 2024 Winwick Mum

Not to be included in any collection or used for profit without written consent of Winwick Mum.